rec.travel Guide to Hong Kong (and Macau)


Version 2.08 -- June 13, 1996

Compiled and Edited by: Joel Chan joel@math.toronto.edu
Contributors are listed near the end of this document.

Copyright © 1992-1996 by Joel Chan. The full copyright disclaimer is at the end of this document.


Greetings!

This guide is made up of edited comments of various people on the Internet, who may or may not have been to Hong Kong and/or may not remember what it was like. So please be sure to take all comments with all the seriousness they deserve.

This is not intended to be a comprehensive guide of things to do in Hong Kong. Its purpose is to relay individual travelers' personal impressions, opinions, and recommendations, to give a more personal note than you would find in a professional tour book.

Note: This guide has errors! Not intentionally, of course. If you find errors, please contact me. If you have anything you wish to add, such as things that you feel should be included in this guide, let me know as well. I would very much appreciate any help or suggestions. Contributions are always welcome and I entertain any questions about the guide!

We are happy to be a part of the Alive! Global Network.

This guide is split up into eleven sections.


IMPORTANT INFORMATION & WHAT'S NEW

(Last updated: March 15, 1996)

In what is one of the world's largest ever infrastructure programs, completion of Hong Kong's new international airport at Chep Lap Kok on Lantau Island is expected in late 1997/early 1998. The international airport is one of many projects that have begun in 1993. Construction of the Tsing Ma Bridge connecting Kowloon and Lantau Island is in progress. Central District and western Kowloon will expand, meaning there will be landfill construction at Victoria Harbour. This will cause certain ferry terminals to relocate in the near future.

Hong Kong returns to Chinese rule effective July 1, 1997. Macau returns to Chinese rule in 1999.

All prices that are included in this article are quoted in Hong Kong Dollars, unless otherwise stated. Please refer to the Currency/Foreign Exchange section.


GENERAL INFORMATION

Tourist Information

The Hong Kong Tourist Association (HKTA) provides tourism information for all visitors to Hong Kong. Here are the numbers you can contact in the United States and Canada:

In Hong Kong, there are HKTA offices in the following locations: Kai Tak International Airport (beyond customs) Star Ferry Concourse, Kowloon side Basement of Jardine House, on Hong Kong Island At Hong Kong, phone 2769-7765/2769-7688. Available 0800-2300. (JC)

The HKTA organizes tours around Hong Kong. There is a tour called the Land Between Tour which will take you to the New Territories It's easier going different places in the NT by joining that tour than to go on your own. (AGC)

The American and Canadian consulates are nearby MTR Central Station. The American Consulate is located at 26 Garden Road. Exit MTR Central Station at Chater Garden, walk southbound (the direction towards the Bank of China Building, the neat looking skyscraper that is made up of "triangles") until you see the Hilton Hotel. Continue walking south at Garden Road. It's past the Peak Tram Station. For the Canadian Consulate, exit MTR Central Station at Worldwide House/Connaught Road. Take the escalator up to the elevated sidewalk and follow the signs to Exchange Square, where the Canadian Consulate is located (One Exchange Square, 11th-14th Floor). (JC)

Customs/Immigration

A valid passport is required to enter Hong Kong. Travellers entering Hong Kong are allowed to stay within the territory for a period not exceeding three months. If an extension is required, applications for extension of stay can be made at the Hong Kong Immigration Service Headquarters at Wan Chai (MTR Wan Chai Station). (JC)

Flying to Hong Kong

Cathay Pacific (CX) is the flagship carrier of Hong Kong. Cathay Pacific flies non-stop from Vancouver to Hong Kong and Los Angeles to Hong Kong. Cathay also operates a Toronto-Hong Kong direct flight with a stopover at Anchorage. All are operated by 747-400 aircraft and are entirely smoke free flights. Cathay also flies non-stop between London-Hong Kong and Paris-Hong Kong.

For US carriers, United Airlines (UA) flies one stop from Chicago via San Francisco to Hong Kong. UA also flies non-stop from Los Angeles. Northwest Airlines (NW) flies from New York to Hong Kong with a stopover at Tokyo. Northwest also flies Detroit to Hong Kong with a change of plane at Tokyo. American Airlines (AA) flyers can take Cathay Pacific from Los Angeles and gain AAdvantage (tm) points with at least full coach fare.

Canadian Airlines International (CP) provides a daily non-stop service from Vancouver to Hong Kong. The smoke-free flight originates in Toronto. Air Canada also provides service to Hong Kong four times a week. (JC)

Singapore Airlines (SQ) offers non-stop service between San Francisco and Hong Kong. SQ provides the only daily non-stop evening flight, departing SFO at around 0100 hrs Pacific Time and arriving at about 0700 hrs Hong Kong Time. The return flight departs at about 2100 hrs Hong Kong Time. (WOL)

British Airways (BA) and Virgin Atlantic (VS) provide non-stop service from London, Air France (AF) provides one-stop service from Paris, and Swissair flies non-stop from Zurich.

Other alternatives for flying from the US to Hong Kong are as follows:

Japan Airlines (JL): Chicago - Tokyo - Hong Kong
Korean Air (KE): New York - Seoul - Hong Kong
China Airlines (CI): Los Angeles - Taipei - Hong Kong

Most Asian-based airlines serve Hong Kong. (JC, THM)

When flying to Hong Kong, baggage limits are based on the weight concept. Most carriers will allow 20 kg on economy, 30 kg on business class, and 40 kg on first class. Passengers who exceed these limits will be required to pay for the excess weight.

Remember that on arrival in Hong Kong, if you stay in the territory for more than 72 hours, you must reconfirm your onward/return flight with your airline. Call the reservations office of your airline upon arrival. If you don't know what the number is, dial 1081 for directory inquiries. (JC)

Arriving at Hong Kong Kai Tak International Airport

Landing at the airport is your first thrill. The glidepath takes you several miles right over the city (you almost think the landing gear is going to graze the rooftops). Then the jet suddenly makes a banking right turn (is that wingtip going to hit something??). Then, seemingly just as the plane levels off again, the landing gear touches the ground. It's like threading a needle with a 747. (KE)

Try getting a window seat on the plane. The plane comes so close to residential housing during touchdown that I actually saw someone hanging clothes in the comfort of their apartment. It's an experience you'll only get in Hong Kong! (SWN)

You can get reasonable deals [for accommodations] at the airport. There's a booth right outside customs which will book you a room (for free?). They have a catalog which lists all reasonable hotels, what their going rate is, etc. (HM)

The hotel booking service at the airport is open late at night and on the two occasions that I've flown into Hong Kong, I've booked a room through them. Cheap beds in Hong Kong are not easy to come by; I've stayed at the Stanford (small rooms, reasonably priced but not cheap) and at the Fortuna (nicer but fancier than I needed and not cheap). (BV) (See Accommodations)

To get to your hotel, you can either take the cab, a limousine, or the airport bus. Some hotels provide complimentary shuttle service. Several airport buses serve most major hotels in the Tsim Sha Tsui (Route A1: $12), Causeway Bay (A3: $17), Central districts (A2: $17; A20: $17), and the Eastern District of Hong Kong (A5: $17). The A2 bus serves hotels at the southern part of Wan Chai, through Central district, and continues westbound to the Macau Ferry Terminal at Sheung Wan. For hotels at Admiralty and the Pacific Place mall, use the A20 bus. There is also a shuttle bus to Kowloon Tong Station, which serves both the MTR subway and KCR commuter rail (A7: $6.50). Buses usually run every 12-20 minutes and maps are available at the airport. A1, A2, A3, A5, and A7 are operated by Kowloon Motor Bus (KMB), while A20 is operated by China Motor Bus (CMB). Fares as of September 1995. (JC)

Coming from China

If you happen to be taking a train from China to Hong Kong, you'll be arriving at Hung Hom Station, which is just minutes away from the Tsim Sha Tsui East area. If your hotel is located in the Tsim Sha Tsui area, you may be best off taking a taxi to your hotel. You may also want to take the cab if your hotel is across the harbour at Hong Kong Island, however there are harbour crossing surcharges when you cross the harbour. Since the train station is next to the Cross Harbour Tunnel, you may decide to take public transit and take a bus across the harbour. (JC)

Currency/Foreign Exchange/Taxes

Hong Kong's currency is the Hong Kong dollar. As of 1985, the Hong Kong dollar is "pegged" to the US Dollar at HK$7.80 = US$1.00, with the rate being able to fluctuate by only 10 HK cents. As of March 1996 it has been around $7.73 to the US Dollar.

Travelers' checks are a safe way to bring money abroad. Visa, MasterCard, and American Express are widely accepted in Hong Kong. The airport is probably the worst place to exchange your currency for Hong Kong dollars. Most banks will do it at a much better rate.

American Express Travel Service Offices are available at the New World Tower Building (MTR: Central), Pacific Place (MTR: Admiralty), 111-139 Nathan Road (MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui), and Park Lane Radisson Hotel Lobby (MTR: Causeway Bay).

There are no sales taxes in Hong Kong. Hong Kong is one of the few tariff-free territories in the world. However, most restaurants add a 10% service charge. You still have to pay a tip! A general rule of thumb is to tip around 3-5%. (JC, MW)

In this guide, all dollar figures are in Hong Kong dollars, unless otherwise stated.

Geography

The area we know as Hong Kong is not just a city, but is rather a large peninsula and 235 islands. Hong Kong proper is on an island (the second-largest of the islands) just south of the southern tip of the peninsula. The city on the southern tip of the mainland is called Kowloon. North of there is a large area (the bulk of the British territory) called New Territories (NT), which is rural and agricultural. The islands apart from Hong Kong Island are called the Outlying Islands. (KE)

Time Zones

Hong Kong is UTC+8 hours and does not have daylight savings time. Hence, Hong Kong is ahead 13 hours of Eastern Standard Time. (JC)

Language

English and Cantonese are the official languages in Hong Kong but English is the language of the law. Most travellers from North America should have no problem getting around Hong Kong since most signs are in both English and Chinese. Many locals will understand English so don't be hesitant to ask anyone on the street. (JC)

Transit: Getting around Hong Kong

Hong Kong is full of different modes of public transportation. *Ferries* link Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula (See Star Ferry).

In Kowloon, double-decker *buses* are served by the Kowloon Motor Bus (KMB). You can usually KMB buses by its peach/red colour. In Hong Kong, buses are served by the China Motor Bus. CMB buses are generally blue. Citybus provides non-stop bus services around Kowloon and Hong Kong. Fares depend on the distance that the bus route travels; they usually range between HK$2.30 to HK$20. Bus routes 1xx are cross-harbour routes jointly operated by CMB and KMB. Both CMB and KMB have increased the amount of air-conditioned double-decker buses in their fleet.

There are also *tram* services on the island. Fares are HK$1.20 per adult. Hong Kong is the only operator of double-decker trams in the world.

The Mass Transit Railway (*MTR*) subway serves all major areas in Kowloon and Hong Kong. A map of the MTR is provided below.

The Kowloon-Canton Railway (*KCR*) runs between Kowloon and the New Territories up to the Chinese border at Lo Wu. To take the KCR, take the MTR to Kowloon Tong where you transit directly at KCR Kowloon Tong Station. (JC, MW)

*Taxis* are plentiful but are hard to get during rush hour. There are certain areas where you are not allowed to flag taxis. The no-stopping zone can be easily identified by seeing if there is a yellow line on the curb of the road. Some cab drivers can communicate in English but you're better off having someone write your destination in Chinese. Taxi fares are $13.00 for the first two kilometres and go up by $1.10 per 200 metres [1995]. There are also tunnel and baggage surcharges. (JC, WOL, TUW)

*Light buses* are 16 seaters whose destination is usually written in the front. Fares are adjusted during the journey. You can stop anywhere by request, except for the no-stopping zones. Tourists should not try this themselves. Bring a local if possible. (JC)

I tried almost all modes of transportation (except KCR) during my visit to Hong Kong. I enjoyed the ferry and tram ride the most because they are the slowest. You get to enjoy the view as you commute. I definitely advise against the taxi ride. You see so little but you pay so much! (SWN)


Hong Kong Mass Transit Railway

               ^ North                 ]|[   Cross-Harbour Tunnel
               |                       ---   MTR Line
                                       hfc   Overhead station
                                       CEN   Underground station
       tsw\
        TWH\ 
         kwh\
          kwf\      
           lak\     
            MEF\
             LCK\        KOT  LOF  WTS  DIH
    Tsuen Wan CSW\       ------------------
       Line    SSP\     /  Kwun Tong Line .\CHH.....
                   |PRE|                 .  \kob
   Zone 1          |MOK|              ...    \ntk
...................|YMT| .............        \kwt
   Zone 2          |JOR     .                  \lat
                   |TST     .                   \
                  ]|[       .                   ]|[
          ---------'        .                ----'
     SHW  CEN  ADM  WAC  CAB. TIH  FOH  NOP  QUB  TAK  SWH  SKW  hfc  chw
     --------------------------------------------------------------------
                             Island Line

Station Abbreviations:

Island Line             Tsuen Wan Line          Kwun Tong Line
Sheung Wan      SHW     Tsim Sha Tsui   TST     Shek Kip Mei    SKM
Central         CEN     Jordan          JOR     Kowloon Tong    KOT
Admiralty       ADM     Yau Ma Tei      YMT     Lok Fu          LOF
Wan Chai        WAC     Mong Kok        MOK     Wong Tai Sin    WTS
Causeway Bay    CAB     Prince Edward   PRE     Diamond Hill    DIH
Tin Hau         TIH     Sham Shui Po    SSP     Choi Hung       CHH
Fortress Hill   FOH     Cheung Sha Wan  CSW     Kowloon Bay     KOB
North Point     NOP     Lai Chi Kok     LCK     Ngau Tau Kok    NTK
Quarry Bay      QUB     Mei Foo         MEF     Kwun Tong       KWT
Tai Koo         TAK     Lai King        LAK     Lam Tin         LAT
Sai Wan Ho      SWH     Kwai Fong       KWF
Shau Kei Wan    SKW     Kwai Hing       KWH
Heng Fa Chuen   HFC     Tai Wo Hau      TWH
Chai Wan        CHW     Tsuen Wan       TSW

Handling the Traffic

I visited Hong Kong back in '84 and was amazed at how pedestrians had to fend for themselves. The walk signals were meaningless. Basically, you had to sprint across the street whenever an opening in the traffic occurred. Being from California, I was not prepared for the aggressiveness of the drivers. Peds have the right of way here, but not in HK. (CB)

It's still the case. As long as there is no traffic around, pedestrians will cross on red lights.

Hong Kong is a British colony, so as you may expect, cars travel on the _left_ side of the road. North American travellers may want to pay special attention to this when crossing streets! (JC)

Telephones

There are no area codes in Hong Kong. All numbers are eight digits long. Local calls on pay phones are HK$1 each. However, many restaurants offer free public phone usage. Dial 1081 for Directory Enquiries (English). Many pay phones offer IDD (International Direct Dialing). (JC)

As of January 1, 1995, all Hong Kong numbers take on an extra digit '2', for a total of eight digit phone numbers. All numbers on the Kowloon side begin with 23 or 27. Hong Kong phone numbers begin with 25 or 28. New Territories phone numbers begin with 24 or 26. (THM) Lantau Island/outlying islands phone numbers begin with 29. Mobile telephone numbers still begin with 9 and pager numbers with 111. (JC)

To call internationally, dial 001, then the country code, then the area code, then the phone number. For instance, to call San Francisco, dial 001-1-415-xxx-xxxx. Dialing procedures may be different in hotels. If you have an AT&T or MCI Calling Card, you can take advantage of lower long distance charges and US operator assistance. For more information, pick up a copy of the USA Today International Edition for AT&T information, or the International Herald Tribune for MCI information.

To have a friend overseas call you in Hong Kong, dial the appropriate international access number, then 852, then the phone number. For instance, from the United States or Canada, dial 011-852-xxxx-xxxx. (JC)

Electricity/Electrical Equipment

220 V, 50 Hz -- similar to equipment in the UK. Most hotels have 110 V sockets for shavers. Hong Kong has a variety of plug outlets -- most are standardized on UK three-pin square sockets (13 amps), but you'll find all types of 2 and 3 pin sockets. Television signals are transmitted in PAL format. If you decide to record a local channel, you may have to get the tape converted to NTSC if you want to view it in the United States or Canada. (JC)

Television/Radio/Media

There are four local television stations in Hong Kong. Television Broadcasts Limited (TVB) operates a Chinese station and an English station (TVB-Jade and TVB-Pearl). Asia Television (ATV) also has a Chinese and English station. Hutchinson Communications also operates Star-TV, which is transmitted by satellite and serves Hong Kong, Taiwan, Thailand, and India. Star-TV has a Chinese station, an English station, and a sports channel. Hotels with satellite feed usually carry CNN. Many homes that own satellites can also get satellite feed from Malaysia, Singapore, the Philippines, Thailand, and China. Hong Kong also provide cable services which carry CNN International, ESPN International, and a variety of other TV stations.
There are four radio stations in English, including a 24-hour all- news station called Metro News. The most popular is FM Select 104.
Go to a newsstand, and you might see as many as 10 different Chinese newspapers. In Hong Kong there is considerable competition in the newspaper industry; in December 1995 a price war began where the price of some newspapers were as low as HK$1. Three newspapers were forced out of business, and the long term effects are not known as of yet.
The South China Morning Post, the Hongkong Standard, and the Eastern Express are the three local English newspapers, however the SCMP is considered the more popular. Other newspapers include the International Herald Tribune, USA Today (International Edition), and the Asian Wall Street Journal. All international newspapers are widely available in the downtown areas. (JC)

Water

The Hong Kong Government claims that tap water is safe to drink, however many locals boil the water. Mid-range hotels supply tap water with ice cubes added, while the top rated hotels usually serve boiled water. Many locals buy bottled water. If you plan to visit Hong Kong during the summer months, it is highly recommended that you drink lots of water during your stay. Bring a small water bottle, or better yet, buy some bottled water such as Evian or Watsons' Distilled. (JC, NJ)

Units of Measurement

Hong Kong officially uses the metric system, however the English system is also used and once in a while you might even see Chinese units.

Traffic signs are stated in metres and kilometres. 1 mile = 1.609 km. Temperature is stated in degrees Celsius.

                     Celsius   Fahrenheit
                       15          59
                       20          68
                       25          77
                       30          86
                       35          95
One's height and weight is usually given in feet/inches and pounds. In supermarkets, fruit and vegetables are priced by the kilogram or the pound. In Chinese markets, Chinese units are used. (JC)

Weather

Hong Kong weather is considered sub-tropical.
             Average Temperature (Degrees Celsius)
                High    Low         
   January       18      13       Winters are considered cool and dull.
   February      17      13        
   March         20      16       Springs are milder but they are either  
   April         24      20       very rainy or very pleasant.
   May           28      24      
   June          30      26       Summers, from June to September, are
   July          31      27       very hot and humid.  Usually it'll be
   August        31      27       32 and 65% on a "good" day.
   September     30      26
   October       28      24       Usually fairly pleasant, rather mild 
   November      24      20       with cool nights.  Good time to visit.
   December      19      15
Typhoon Season: Typhoon season normally begins in June and ends in September. There are at least two or three typhoons that hit Hong Kong or at least affect the weather of the territory. The Royal Observatory of Hong Kong is responsible for informing the mass media when a typhoon alert is hoisted. A number 1 signal means there is a typhoon which has a possibility of heading towards the general direction of Hong Kong. A number 3 signal says that a typhoon is less than 1000 kilometres away and heading towards the general direction of Hong Kong. Some ferry services may be suspended. A number 8 signal says that the typhoon is hitting Hong Kong. At this point, all businesses close, and many public transit services are suspended, including all ferry services, many bus and tram routes, and the overhead sections of the MTR. If you happen to be in Hong Kong when the number 8 signal is hoisted, stay indoors! Signal numbers 9 and 10 mean a monster hurricane is hitting Hong Kong. Fortunately, signals 9 and 10 have not been put up in many years. (JC)

Health Services

Medical facilities in Hong Kong are widely available. In a recent survey released August 8, 1993, life expectancies for both men and women in Hong Kong are ranked third worldwide. (JC)

Crime/Emergencies/Police

Most tourist areas are actually rather crime-free. You'll hear about shops being looted occasionally, but tourists are usually not targets of crime. The MTR is virtually crime-free. However, as in any major city, you should take the necessary precautions to make sure your valuables are protected and that you don't walk alone during the late night hours. The problem with triads in Hong Kong has been increasing over the years.

Hong Kong residents and tourists are required to have valid identification on hand at all times. Police will make random checks.

In case of an EMERGENCY, dial 999. (JC)

Other Travel Guides

I used the Lonely Planet book for a guide, and found it to be very good. Be aware, though, that the English spellings used in the LP book are not the same as the English spellings used on signs in HK. Also, prices in the LP book were consistently low by about 1/3, so for a general conversion, take the price listed in the book and add 50%. (For example, if the book says a ticket costs $20, figure $30. If the book says a tour costs $150, figure $150 + $75 = $225.) (KE)

If you can find it, I would strongly suggest buying the `Real Guide to Hong Kong and Macau' -- this is a great publication that lists the best inexpensive accommodations (and gives appropriate warning about the worst ones, such as those found at Chung King Mansions), as well as being a first-rate guide book. (DT)

Bookstores

For a good list of bookstores which sell English-language material, consult the List of Bookstores in Various Asian Cities. (JC)

Returning Home

When making the trip to Kai Tak International Airport, expect at least a 30-45 minute trip from your hotel, especially if you plan to use the KMB or CMB Airport bus service.

Hong Kong's airport tax is not included in the price of the ticket. Current airport tax is $50 for adults and must be paid in *cash* at the check-in counter.

As of January 1, 1994, check-in counters close exactly 40 minutes prior to flight departure, while boarding gates close 10 minutes prior to departure. This is to discourage passengers from arriving at the airport at the last minute and to improve on-time performance. Passengers are advised to check in at the terminal at least two hours before check in. (JC, THM, DL)


ACCOMMODATIONS

(See also Arriving at Hong Kong Kai Tak International Airport, Other Travel Guides)

Accommodation varies in Hong Kong... from the really run-down guest house to the five star hotels. It depends on your budget. (AGC)

I suggest you look in the Lonely Planet Guides (Southeast Asia, Hong Kong/Macau, and/or possibly other titles) for really good recommendations. (EP)

The Hong Kong Internet Directory contains web pages of hotels in Hong Kong. (JC)


Chung King Mansions
(MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui) 40 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

For the budget minded, I suggest the New Grand Guest House 13/F C5 Chung King Mansion, Tel. 2311-1702. They charge $200 per night, and you won't find another guest house nearly this good for any price. This info is current (as of November 1992), since I stayed there last week. (BM)

Everybody has their own story to tell about the Chung King Mansions; I haven't stayed there myself. I have friends who loved it and friends who hated it; it just depends on which part of the labryinth you end up in. But it's all cheap! (LLC)

EVERYTIME, and I mean EVERYTIME, I passed by the Mansion there was either an incident occuring, a cop car in front, a fire truck, or an ambulance. This was in the span of four days. It's up to you whether you want to stay there. (KS)

A 1992 news documentary I saw on TV in Hong Kong was about how the Mansion is a time bomb ready to explode. The entire building is a fire hazard. A large fire would kill a lot of people since the building is essentially a labryinth. There are usually power outages during the summer because the electric wires are overloaded. (JC)


Club Hotel
(MTR: Mong Kok)

If you want a hostel-like place for cheap, try the "Club Hotel" at 714 Shanghai St. It's in Mong Kok, which is in northern Kowloon. I was there about a year and a half ago [winter 1991-92], and it was HK$45 (US$6.10) per night. Everything's small and cramped in Hong Kong, but otherwise it's a good clean place with hot water. You can call from the airport -- sorry, don't know the number (assuming of course that it still exists). (RG)


Harbour View International House (MTR: Wan Chai) 4 Harbour Road, Wan Chai. Tel: 2802-0111 Fax: 2802-9063

I arranged for a friend to stay there once, and it was very satisfactory; a good, standard (not fleabag) hotel room in the heart of Wan Chai, walking distance to the tram, MTR, and Wan Chai ferry to Tsim Sha Tsui. It's certainly vastly better than anything to be found in Chungking Mansions. (BN)


International Youth Hostel -- Ma Wui Hall

I personally recommend the International Youth Hostel, which is called Ma Wui Hall. The hostel is located as the Kennedy Town end of Hong Kong Island, the best bit is that the hostel is on top of Mount Davis, an awesome 2km half hour walk up to the top. The Hong Kong Tourist Authority has directions how to get there in Cantonese so you can show the taxi driver where to go.

It's a bit out of the way but has a nice view and only costs HK$40(GBP3-4) a night. [1992] (??)


New Star Guest House
(MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui) 21 Cameron Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2nd Floor, Kowloon Tel: 2723-0686
The rooms are reasonably sized and clean. Some have an attached bathroom but they communal bathroom is clean and tidy. Friendly management (run by a man named Charlie Chan).

For a room with a shared bathroom, it is about US$38 per night. The monthly rate is about US$25 per night. (March 1996) (JM)


Noble Hostel
(MTR: Causeway Bay) 27 Paterson St., Great George Bldg. 17/F, Flat A3, Causeway Bay Tel: 2576-6148 Fax: 2577-0847
(Rates as reported November 1994: HK$200-240 for single with shared bath/toilet and $300 for double with private bath/toilet.)

I stayed at the Noble Hostel for about Cdn$35 (HK$210) in January 1993, and was very satisfied. People were friendly, there was a television, the place was secure, but the bathrooms were shared (but they had HOT water!!!).
The disadvantage is that it is located in an expensive tourist section.
There are 2 or 3 'Noble Hostels' around Hong Kong which are probably run by the same person. (EP)


Sky Guest House
(MTR: Yau Ma Tei)

I used to stay in the Sky Guest House in Yau Ma Tei, just above Kowloon. It's a small place on the 14th or 15th floor of a high rise, not elegant but fine. They recently renovated, so prices may have gone up; when I stayed there it ran about US$15 a night. It may be double that now. I used to call them from the airport when I got into HK to see if they had rooms available; I got their number out of the phone book there in the airport. (LLC)


STB Hostel
(MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui) Reclamation St., 2 blocks west of Nathan Road. Approximate Rates: $100 for a dorm bed, single and double rooms (with or without bathroom) range from $260-360 per night. (Rates as reported November 1994)

Unfortunately there is little chance of finding a cheap bed in HK. The STB Hostel on Reclamation Street (Kowloon side) which is run by the HK Students Association has dorm beds for a little under HK$100/night but they have always been fully booked days in advance in my experience. I had to stay in a double room there for HK330/night which came complete with gross engorged bed-bugs. (DB)


YMCA of Hong Kong
(MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui) 41 Salisbury Rd, Kowloon. Telephone: 2369-2211, Fax: 2739-9315, Telex: 31274 HYMCA HX Rates as of August 1992: Single $495, Standard Twin/Double $625, Harbour View Twin/Double $765, Suite/Family Suite $985, Harbour View Executive Suite $1095, 2 Bedroom Apartments/Suite $1095, Extra Bed $100. All rates subject to 10% service charge. (FC)

I stayed here in mid-Sept, 1992, and it was wonderful. Note that there is more than one YMCA in Hong Kong, so make sure you book at the right locale. It was about US$70/night, not a price for the backpacking types. But the facilities are fantastic (especially since I was in training during this time). The atrium wasn't finished when I was there, but it is now. The YMCA had a fresh fruit basket in my room, a nice surprise. And they have an airport bus. It's definitely not like the Ys I've seen in NYC. (KS)

I strongly recommend the YMCA at Salisbury. It was only reopened recently and is right in the middle of town, a seven minute walk to the Star Ferry. The rates are quite reasonable. (AGC)

I don't recall the condition of the youth hostel in Hong Kong, but much of their "budget" accommodations is pretty cramped, dirty, and noisy. After a few nights at a budget hotel, I checked in at the YMCA. Their prices are "budget", their rooms pretty quiet and clean. It also felt much safer there than in other places. An extra bonus is a great location next to the Peninsula hotel. Unfortunately, it gets full quickly. The best bet is to wire in advance (a travel agent can do this) or call to make a reservation. Otherwise, you can drop by on your first day there and see what you can get for that night or future nights. (PH)


YMCA of Hong Kong
(at Nathan and Waterloo, MTR: Yau Ma Tei)

In addition to the Salisbury YMCA, I would recommend the YMCA on Nathan and Waterloo. I have stayed there several times and found it clean, comfortable, air conditioned, etc. It is just as good as the Salisbury but much cheaper. (LW)


YWCA of Hong Kong
(MTR: Yau Ma Tei + 15 minute walk) 5 Man Fuk Road, Ho Man Tin, Kowloon. Tel: 2713-9211 Rates (October 1994): Double $600, Single (shared bathrooms) $300, 50% discounts on stays more than 4 weeks. (SP)


COVERING HONG KONG IN LESS THAN 24 HOURS

If you are only going to spend a full day in Hong Kong, this list is for you! Here is a suggested itinerary, and should take you to all the major stops and attractions in a day. For more information about each event, read more about it in the next section, "Attractions and Activities".

07:00	Wake up.  Have breakfast.  Pack a lunch.
08:30	Take the MTR (Subway) to Central Station.  So much of Hong
        Kong's pace of life can be seen by a subway ride.  Don't
        expect to get a seat.  (If you happen to live around
        Central Station, you get an extra 30 minutes sleep!  But
        make sure you do ride the MTR in the course of your day.)
        Choose the Landmark exit.
09:00   Walk around Central District.  Check out the mass of people
        getting to work.  Start walking eastbound on Queens Road
        and stop by the Hongkong Shanghai Bank Building and the
        Bank of China Building for some air conditioning.  Continue
        walking eastbound to Pacific Place.  
10:30   From Pacific Place, take the escalators all the way up to
        Hong Kong Park.  Cross Hong Kong Park.  Walk towards the Peak
        Tram Station.
12:30   Take the Peak Tram up Victoria Peak.  Eat your lunch.  Enjoy
        the view.
14:30   Take the tram back down and board the free double-decker
        bus to the Star Ferry.  If the weather is fine, sit on the
        open roof upper deck.
15:30	Board the Star Ferry for Kowloon (Tsim Sha Tsui)
15:45	Walk around Tsim Sha Tsui.  Go shopping or enjoy the sites
        in the area.  If you are just interested in sites, visit
        the Cultural Centre, the Space Museum, and the Hong Kong
        Museum of History.  Shopping?  Go through the Ocean Centre/
        Harbour City complex, then walk to Grenville Road if you
        want to get cheap clothes.
19:00   Dinner, preferably at a Chinese restaurant (Where else are
        you going to go?).
20:30   Got any kids?  Then go home and send the kids to sleep.  Then
        either (1) go to some of the more popular pubs in Hong Kong, or
        (2) visit a Chinese night market at Mongkok or Temple Street.

ATTRACTIONS AND ACTIVITIES

A brief note about directions. Directions are not exact, and they assume you are travelling by either walking or taking transit. For most attractions listed, the nearest MTR station will be listed along with a possible feeder service if necessary. The word 'downtown' can not be applied to Hong Kong because it would cover a very huge area. Central District usually refers to the main business district of Hong Kong (located on Hong Kong Island), while Tsim Sha Tsui is the main tourist shopping area on the Kowloon side. I take no responsibility if you end up getting lost. If the directions don't live up to it's description, let me know. (JC)

Key to Transportation Abbreviations:

MTR	Mass Transit Railway (subway)
KMB	Kowloon Motor Bus (the beige coloured buses)
CMB	China Motor Bus (the blue coloured buses)


Aberdeen
(CMB Buses 71, 70 or light bus 35M)

A spectacular waterfront, you can see people living in sampans and fishing boats. It's also known for its' floating restaurants, but they have become tourist traps and it's not the best place to sample Cantonese food. (JC/BM)

This is a bay on the south side. You'll find the Jumbo Floating Restaurant there. Take a water taxi across and look around. It's a spendy place to eat (we just had a drink at the bar). (KE)

Be careful not to jump on the wrong boat to the Jumbo Floating Restaurant, the locals will charge you for the ride. It cost $40 for 3 people for breakfast. (October 1994) (ML)


Bank of China Building
(MTR: Central or Admiralty Stations)

It's not really a place to go sightseeing, but it's one example of Hong Kong's amazing modern architecture. Not surprisingly, the building was designed by I.M. Pei. He had the problem of constructing a skyscraper given little space and made the most of it. It's my favourite building in Hong Kong. The BoC Building was the tallest building in Hong Kong for awhile and it was recently taken over by Central Plaza in Wan Chai. The general public is not allowed access to the top of the building. The top is a conference centre and if you're caught by a security guard, you will be asked to leave. It is possible to go up to the 55th (?) floor, though. The view is supposedly fairly spectacular. (JC)


Causeway Bay
(MTR: Causeway Bay; From Kowloon, KMB/CMB: 101, 102, 103, 111, 116)

A major shopping area for tourists along with Central and Tsim Sha Tsui. There are lots of Japanese department stores around this area. Many of the newer shopping areas are now located in Causeway Bay instead of Central, including Times Square, a mega-shopping mall with about nine floors worth of shopping. Definitely worth a visit to this area. (JC)


Central District
(MTR: Central; From Kowloon, KMB/CMB: 101, 103, 104, 105, 109, 111, 113; Star Ferry from Tsim Sha Tsui)

Central is the business district of Hong Kong. If you happen to be at Central during rush hour or lunch break on weekdays, you'll see why Hong Kong is one of the most powerful business territories in Asia. It's quite an experience. Central District is also home to many fancy boutiques and shops. The Landmark is a modern shopping mall with big brand name shops. There's a Lane Crawford nearby at Queens Rd. Central. Then there is Li Yuen Streets East and West. They are small alleys filled with small shops that sell clothing, shoes, ties, scarves, and handbags. It's a popular spot for both tourists and locals alike. The district is also home to some of the best architectural designs around: the Hongkong Shanghai Bank Building is not too hard to spot. The Bank of China Building is visible from almost anywhere in Central. The Exchange Square towers are magnificent. Still one of my favourites is the Jardine House, which is right across from the Post Office Headquarters and is easy to recognize by the round windows. Jardine House was the building Spiderman climbed: it was then the tallest building in Asia. (JC)


Central Plaza
(MTR: Wanchai Station)

Currently the tallest building in Hong Kong and the 4th tallest in the world. (JC)


Cheung Chau

Take the HKF Ferry from the Outlying Islands Pier to Cheung Chau. The Pier itself is located in Central. (JC, THM)


Chinese University
(KCR: University Station)

If you plan to visit the New Territories for the day along the KCR line, the Chinese University is one place to stop and look around. Check out the art gallery at the Institute of Chinese Studies. (JC)


Deep Water Bay/Repulse Bay
From MTR Central Station, take the CMB 260 air-conditioned bus towards Stanley.

One of the many beaches in Hong Kong. Water quality is not the best, but the views are still wonderful. (JC)


Eating

(See the following section on Restaurants)


Exchange Square
(MTR: Central) Two minute walk from the Hong Kong Star Ferry.

This is where the Hong Kong Stock Exchange is located. Exchange Square is a complex of four buildings. Mainly for office space, Exchange Square also contains fine restaurants and a supermarket. It is also the home of the Canadian Consulate in Hong Kong. (JC)


Golden Shopping Centre
(MTR: Sham Shui Po)

If you want cheap computer hardware, manuals, and lots of pirated software, visit the the Golden Centre on Fuk Wa and Gwei Lin St. It's an easy area to get lost in! (JN)

For an idea of how cheap pirated software is, a pirated disk usually costs HK$10. This means Microsoft Windows 3.1, without manuals, will cost you less than HK$100. Every few months or so, the police raid the centre and fine/arrest merchants who sell pirated software. (JC)

Another attraction outside Golden Shopping Centre is the street-side food vendors. Various vendors sell anything from grass jelly to (fake) shark fins to various assortments of fried foods. Might be a health risk, though. (MW)


Happy Valley Racecourse
(MTR: Causeway Bay)

(See Horse Racing)


Harbour City
(MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui)

(See Ocean Terminal/Ocean Centre/Harbour City)


Harbour Views

(See Victoria Harbour)


Horse Racing

Hong Kong people gamble all the time. Surprisingly enough, only lotteries and horse racing are legal gambling activities. The Royal Hong Kong Jockey Club organizes races on Wednesdays, Saturdays, and Sundays at one of two sites: Happy Valley or at Shatin. Crowds usually average over 50,000 a day, so you can imagine how crazy Hong Kong people can get when it comes to gambling. There are even devices which you can hook up to your phone line so you can pick your favourite horses. (JC)


Hongkong Shanghai Bank Headquarters
(MTR: Central)

Another one of those spectacular buildings in Hong Kong. Just enjoy the architecture. (JC)

The real attraction is inside! Escalators run from the ground floor all the way up!! Open partitions everywhere... great sight. (MW)


Hong Kong Cultural Centre
(MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui) From Hong Kong island, take the Star Ferry to Kowloon. It's directly to your right. Between the Star Ferry and the Hong Kong Space Museum.

This is a big pavillion right on the southern tip of Tsim Sha Tsui It's mainly a bunch of concert halls for symphonies, plays, cultural events, etc. Along the waterfront there is a big observation deck with a phenomenal view of Hong Kong Island. (KE)


Hong Kong Museum of Art
(MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui) Next to Hong Kong Space Museum.
Admission: $10 for adults, $5 for children.

Art galleries which contain prints, artwork, and artifacts of Hong Kong and Macau. Opened in 1992 after moving from it's previous location at Hong Kong City Hall. (JC)


Hong Kong Museum of History
(MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui, walk through Kowloon Park)

It's a good stop to get a historical perspective on Hong Kong. It has lots of exhibits, many with wax-museum-like figures, and shows depicting the history of Hong Kong. (KE)


Hong Kong Park
(MTR: Admiralty)

One of the newer parks that opened in 1991. Here you'll find the Museum of Tea Ware (free admission) which I highly recommend. It also contains an aviary with tropical birds and plants. The walk is highly recommended as well. It is also very close to the Peak Tram Station. (JC)


Hong Kong Space Museum
(MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui)
Space Theatre Admission: $20 adults, $13 children.
Exhibition Hall admission: $10 adults, $5 children. (THM)
Students should bring student identification cards for half-price discounts.

A great museum for kids. Learn about space travel, astronomy, as astrology at the exhibition halls. The Space Theatre is an Omnimax theatre that presents shows on topics including space travel. (JC)


Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens
Upper Albert Road.

Contains a nice collection of animals, including an aviary. (JC)


Jogging in Hong Kong

I've recently returned from a month long holiday trip to Hong Kong, staying with my wife's family there. This was my 4th trip there, and I thought I'd got used to the place by now. I've never found a good place to run there and before I went I asked about places to run on soc.culture.hongkong. I didn't receive any replies. The place we were staying belonged to my brother-in-law and was a 4th floor apartment overlooking the seafront. There was a great view at night looking across from Kowloon to the Hong Kong island water-front. At night most of the sea front buildings were lit up with decorations to celebrate Chinese new year. The days however were mostly misty and dull (when it wasn't raining).
When I went out for my first run, the day after we arrived, I'm sure my mother-in-law never expected to see me again. She thought I was going to get lost and never be able to find my way back, so before she would let me go I had to take with me a piece of paper with the address of the apartment written in Cantonese (I don't speak much (any?) Cantonese so how she thought I'd understand the reply I'd get after showing this address I don't know :-), plus a dollar for the phone in case I got lost. I didn't get lost, I just got wetter than I'd ever been before on a run. I was only out 25 minutes and I looked like a drowned rat when I got back.
After a few days I found a reasonable route, the problem being that there are so many cars, people and buildings around, *every* green spot has been built on, there wasn't really anywhere to run. The only places I could find were along the short seafront road, and through walkways which go under the flyovers and stuff. It would take a long train ride to get anywhere where there is anything that could be called countryside, and our daily timetable of visiting folk and shopping meant that I had little time for running anyway.
So my best route started out running around the bus and Star Ferry terminus outside the apartment. The real problem here is that if a ferry happens to arrive there is a real problem pushing through the weight of people. No-one *ever* would move out of the way for someone running so you feel a bit like a human pin ball :( Running along the sea front, the view is obscured because they are trying to turn the sea into land so that they can build on it - HK is surrounded by mountains, the only place to build is upwards, usually after reclaiming land from the sea. Further on my route took me past and through an area full of funeral parlours and small shops full of flowers overflowing onto the street, which they use for the funerals. One morning there was a funeral of a police officer and it seemed like the whole of the Kowloon police force were there.
The route I took went briefly away from the buildings to go under a fly over and came out alongside the Kowloon to Canton railway line where every morning a train full of livestock from China was being unloaded to be taken to market in HK, (IMHO the smell from a train load of pigs can be more than a bit overpowering). After leaving the railway, the route came out alongside an 8 lane highway which disappeared into a tunnel after a while and I turned off into a park. Yeah! grass and trees at last, this park was 200 meters long by 30 meters wide but it did make a change from the highway. The park marked the turn for home which went up hill most of the way and then *sharply* downhill to sea level again. I now had to run through the busy shopping streets to get back home. The streets are truely amazing, you can buy just about anything, but most of all they sell food everywhere. Dodging people and cars (I'm sure most people thought I was mad) I made my way back to the sea front, watching 747's take off about a mile away at the airport as I ran. In keeping with the rest of HK, the airport is also amazing. One of the most dangerous airports in the world according to a magazine article I read, arriving in HK the planes come in at 90 degrees to the runway trying to avoid the mountains, whilst being less than 100 feet above the highest buildings. Suddenly they swoop down, turning sharply to land on the runway. This runway goes out into the sea of course so stopping quickly is a priority :-) Well, on the whole not a great place to run, but definitely a great place to visit! (TB)

I also was amazed at how they have covered every available bit of land with high-rises. I didn't see any runners there during a 10-day visit. Lots of runners in Japan, (during their lunch hour, wearing their white gloves), but not Hong Kong. (CB)

What most visitors do not realise is that the hinterland of both Hong Kong Island and Kowloon/New Territories contains large swathes of very beautiful country parks. A visitor simply needs to be a little adventurous. Running in the hills and the country parks is very safe -- very few dangerous snakes and no muggings. A good way of discovering a few unusual places is to contact the Hong Kong Hash House Harriers. They run on Monday evenings starting 6:00pm prompt from different locations each week. (KT)

Also see The Peak.


Kowloon Park
(MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui or Jordan)

Lots of greenery in a busy area of the city. Check out the Chinese Gardens. Also don't miss the Hong Kong Museum of History. (JC)


Ladies Street (Tung Choi Street)

(See Mongkok)


Lai Chi Kok Amusement Park
(MTR: Mei Foo)

The second largest amusement park in Hong Kong (to Ocean Park), but it's absolutely horrible. Total waste of time for the kids. (JC)

A zoo used to belong in the amusement park -- the zoo is now closed with the animals herded off to a "wildlife" theme park in Shenzhen (across the Hong Kong-China border). The amusement park is still there. (MC)


Lau Fau Shan
(New Territories, rent a car)

Lau Fau Shan is a well known fishing village. Go to the market, purchase the fish you want, bring it to a restaurant and have the chef cook it for you. Very interesting place. On a clear day you can see China across Deep Bay. (JC)


Lantau Island
From the HKF Outlying Islands Pier at Central, take the ferry to Mui Wo.

Lantau is the largest island in Hong Kong. It is where the new international airport will be built. It is worth a day's visit. Lots of hiking trails to choose from. (JC)

After arriving at Mui Wo, plan ahead where to go and catch the bus (operated by the Lantau Bus Company). The signs are well indicated but you must make your decision fast (*really fast*) since the buses leave the terminus at about 15 minutes after the arrival of the ferry. If you miss it, you may have to wait for 1/2 hour for the next bus. (THM)

I explored this island on my own, and only spent a half-day there or so. I took a bus from the ferry terminal to the Po Lin Monastery. This is a Chinese Buddhist monastery. It's a bit touristy, but well worth a trip in my view. The bus takes almost an hour to get there and drives around half the island, so it's a good way to get a cheap tour of the territory. The monastery grounds include a lot of attractions. You can rent horses there. There's a hostel. There are peaceful, pleasant lanes on which to walk. Just next to the monastery is a huge bronze Buddha (the largest outdoor Buddha in the world!). You can see the Buddha from the valley long before you get to the monastery. If you're into hiking, you might consider making a day hike to the one night on the island, then get an early start on the hike. There's a trail to the top, so it's really trekking, not mountaineering. Also, Lantau Island has some great beaches. (KE)


Li Yuen Streets East and West
(MTR: Central)

(See Central)


Macau
From Hong Kong, take the jetfoil from the Hong Kong Macau Ferry Terminal (MTR: Sheung Wan). The trip takes an hour. Jetfoils depart every fifteen minutes or so, with extra service during rush hour. (KE) One-way adult fare for jetfoils is $116 to $131, hydrofoils $62. Departure tax of $15 not included. There is no tax on the return trip from Macau to Hong Kong. (TUW, THM) Fares as of March 1995.

Day trip to Macau. Macau is a Portuguese colony just like HK is a British colony. Macau is about 65 km away and takes one hour to get there by jetfoil. It's a smaller, less well-known city. It is strange to see the spanish-like architecture and language in the midst of an oriental culture. Some points about Macau:

Take special precautions when you arrive at Sheung Wan MTR. Follow the signs exactly or else you will get to an exit where you can't directly enter the Hong Kong Macau Ferry Terminal Building. In some shops, they will give you a 5% exchange rate if you pay in Hong Kong dollars (as far as I know, McDonald's does). It is rather like paying US dollars in Canada. (THM)


Mongkok/Ladies Street
(MTR: Mong Kok)

Mongkok is the most densely populated district in the world. If you happen to bring your kids along, hold on to them tight! They can easily get lost in the crowd.
At MTR Mong Kok Station, find the Bank Centre exit. Once you leave the station, you'll immediately see why the place is so densely populated!
The street in front of you is Sai Yeung Choi St. Here you'll see nothing but audio/video/hi-fi stores. If it's audio/video equipment you want, you'll find it here. Many stores will accept US dollars and even travellers checks! Beware of those possible scams, though.
(See: Shopping)
Walk down Nelson Street until you make it to Tung Choi Street. This night market is also known as Ladies Street, since it mostly sells stuff for ladies including clothing, cosmetics, etc. for bargain basement prices. Souvenir Hong Kong t-shirts sell very cheap -- but can get destroyed easily by putting them in the wash several times! You'll also be able to find music stores, too. Best time to visit Ladies Street is from 7 to 10 in the evening. Going one more block further east is Fa Yuen Street. If you look to the left, you'll see the greatest collection of sporting shops in Hong Kong. You'll usually get a great price at any sporting goods you need. I've bought tennis rackets, shoes, and tennis shirts there. (JC)


Museum of Tea Ware
(MTR: Admiralty)

(See Hong Kong Park)


New Territories

A possibility, if you are interested in urban development, is to take a hydrofoil from Central to Tuen Mun and then take a few trips on the new Light Rail line from there to Yuen Long, getting off at some of the intermediate stops to soak up the atmosphere. The route structure is convoluted but the system is easy to use. All instructions are in English as well as Cantonese, with good diagrammatic maps. There is a zonal fare structure; tickets are bought from machines at each stop. If you want to see how the new Hong Kong new middle class lives, eats, plays and works free of intrusions from tourists - except those adventurous enough to find their way there - this will make for an interesting half- or all-day excursion. There are also some temples, parks, sports facilities, etc., accessible by the rail line. Information is available at the Tuen Mun ferry terminal; some of the brochures are partially in English - or used to be. Food is available at several Chinese fast food restaurants in the shopping centres. Language is not a problem because all items sold are illustrated. (KH)


Night Clubs

Many in tourist areas. Watch out for bars which are just fronts for brothels. The first round of drinks includes the girl behind the bar. (JN)


Night Markets

(See the following: Mongkok/Ladies Street, Temple Street)


Ocean Park
(MTR: Admiralty, take the Citybus direct to Ocean Park)

[Fares as of September 1993]
Admission: $140 for adults, $70 for children.
WaterWorld Admission: $60 for adults, $40 for children. (KE)
Admission from MTR Admiralty: $154 for adults. Includes round-trip transportation from Admiralty Station to Ocean Park. (THM)

One of our party wanted to see this amusement park. I was not so hot on the idea, but now after having been there, I would call this a "must-see". There are two entrances to this park. The main one (I think) is right next to another attraction called "Water World", which is a huge complex of swimming pools and other water fun-stuff. The Water World part requires a separate admission, so we didn't go in (as much as we wanted to on that hot, summer day!). Instead, we took a gondola over the mountain to the main part of Ocean Park. Stunning views from the gondola on the way over.
Ocean Park is sort of long and strung out along the edge of a small peninsula on the south side of HK Island (it's within easy sight of Aberdeen and the Jumbo Floating Restaurant). The park includes the following things:

This last one (Middle Kingdom) is by far worth the price of admission all by itself. It's a small park that shows architecture, art, crafts, and culture from all the ancient Chinese dynasties. ABSOLUTELY DO NOT MISS THE SHOW!!!! The show includes traditional Chinese dance, juggling, and acrobats. IT'S PHENOMENAL!! (KE)


Ocean Terminal/Ocean Centre/Harbour City
(MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui) Steps away from the Star Ferry.

This three shopping mall complex is one of the largest in Asia. It is mainly a shopping mall for tourists. Shops include Toys 'R' Us, Lane Crawford, Marks and Spencer, and Computer City (located at Star House) right next to the bus terminus at Star Ferry. (JC, MW)


Outlying Islands

See the following topics: Lantau Island, Cheung Chau


Pacific Place
(MTR: Admiralty)

Pacific Place is a huge complex with an ultra-modern shopping mall in Hong Kong right in the middle of three of the most expensive hotels in the territory -- the Marriott, the Conrad, and the Island Shangri-La. It's like any major shopping mall in North America. Seibu Department Store is located there, along with fast food restaurants such as McDonald's, Pizza Hut, and KFC downstairs at the food court. You'll also find your clothing chains such as Esprit and Benetton. There is also a movie theatre (UA Queensway). Some of the restaurants are also highly recommended. (JC)


The Peak
(MTR: Central) From the Star Ferry (Hong Kong side), walk around to the left and queue up for the free bus ride to the tram station at Garden Road. From MTR Central Station, exit at Chater Garden and walk towards the Hilton to Garden Road. Walk along Garden Road.
Tram fares are $14 one-way, $21 round trip for adults. (Fares as of February 1996)
There are also CMB routes that serve the Peak.

The one place that would be decent would be Victoria Peak. You have to take an incline car to the top, but then you can walk/run on this fairly flat road which rings the top of the mountain. The view of Kowloon and Hong Kong is fantastic (provided it's not misty or raining, which it was the two of the three times I was up there). It seems to be a haven for wealthy Europeans. (CB)

Take the tram to the top. It doesn't go clear to the top, but high enough. Gorgeous view of the harbour. One friend of mine went up there at night. (KE)

The tramcars have been recently replaced with 72-seater cars. The incline is very steep, which is why the seats are angled in such a weird fashion. (JC)

The return trip from the Peak Tram Station in Central to the Star Ferry is free with a receipt from the Peak Tram. (ML)


Repulse Bay

(See Deep Water Bay)


Restaurants

(See the following section on Restaurants)


Shatin Racecourse
(KCR: Racecourse Station)

(See Horse Racing)


Sai Kung

The Sai Kung area, located in the eastern part of the New Territories, is known for its' country parks, and as a fishing village. Seafood restaurants are aplenty. (JC)


Shopping

Hong Kong is famous for it. You can't go anywhere in town and avoid it. Just walk over the Tsim Sha Tsui district in Kowloon. Nathan Road (the main street running north and south through the peninsula) is the heart of the shopping, but there are MANY other areas. Many places hire people to stand on the street and solicit buyers to enter their shops. If you look like a westerner, you're bound to get hype from tailor shops, watch sellers, etc. (KE)

As to shopping, if you've never shopped in the Orient, then you need some intuition, as you can get badly burned from such ploys as taking the camera you've just chosen out back to put it in its box, when they return, something else altogether has found its way into your box! And many retailers will make any promises you want to get your sale, on such matters as international validity of guarantees. There *are* bargains to be made, but don't lose your cool! (AR)

Having spent the last year living here in Hong Kong, the idea of Hong Kong as a "shopper's paradise" is mostly a marketing ploy by the Hong Kong Tourist Association. You can find cheap things such as clothing but in essence Hong Kong is not very cheap. (??)

It's probably a waste of time at best, and very foolish at worst to try to buy anything in Hong Kong, especially if you live in America. If you try hard enough, you can buy just about anything here for the same price or less, and it will really work, be what you paid for, and you won't be cheated or lied to. (BJS)

International goods are only marginally less than elsewhere. Hong Kong island has a number of large dept stores with fixed prices. These are are good guide to the maximum to pay. If you prefer bargaining, then Kowloon and nearby shopping districts can be fun but still not the cheapest. For best prices, but lower choice, go to shopping areas used by the locals. Watch out for the final wrapping scam. (What you get is not what you first saw.) (JN)

Be careful, as some smaller shops will double the price of things you want if you look like a tourist. Lots of fake items such as watches and Polo Ralph Lauren shirts in night markets. (KC)

Hong Kong is not any longer a cheap place for shopping. Especially with the falling dollar, I would expect that all the things you need can be bought for about the same price in the United States and most European countries. The things in the night market are not very cheap, either. For example, fake watches starting from HK$35 are the same watches that can be found in many post order catalogues for a cheaper price or as add-on in many purchases. (TUW)

Your best bet is to ask a HK local where they do their shopping, that's were you get the best bargains. (VS)

Either that, or choose a place where there is an HKTA sticker on the door. (JC)

Also see: Causeway Bay, Central District, Golden Shopping Centre, Mongkok/Ladies Street,Ocean Terminal/Ocean Centre/Harbour City, Pacific Place, Stanley Beach, Temple Street, Tsim Sha Tsui


Stanley Beach
From MTR Central, walk to the Bus Terminus below Exchange Square and take the CMB 260 to Stanley. All buses are air-conditioned.

Stanley was once a prisoners' camp operated by the Japanese during WWII. Now it's known as a spectacular beach with wholesale clothes retailers. You can also buy ceramics and books. (JC)

Stanley market is worth a visit (bus or taxi) for cheap clothing. linen and miscellaneous junk/souvenirs. (JN)

Many tourists go there. It looks like a big flea market with a lot of cheap clothing and gift stores. (KC)


Star Ferry
At the Kowloon Side, walk from MTR Tsim Sha Tsui Station. At the Hong Kong Side, walk from MTR Central Station. Reported fares valid as of January 1996.

These green and white ferry boars move constantly across the channel between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island. They cost $1.40 on the lower deck, $1.70 on the upper deck. Exact change is required for the lower deck. Go to the Star Ferry Terminal. As you walk down the corridor you come to a set of turnstiles. Insert fare in the turnstile and walk through. (KE)

As for sights, the most amazing IMHO is the view of the city at night when viewed from a trip on the Star Ferry. (AR)

Also see Victoria Harbour.


Tai Tam
CMB Bus 2 or 20 from the Hong Kong Star Ferry, then take bus 9 from the Shaukiwan Terminus.

Tai Tam is where the Tai Tam Country Park is. Surrounding the reservoir, it is a great place for hiking. (JC)


Temple Street
(MTR: Jordan) From Jordan Station, walk towards the Jordan Ferry, westbound from Nathan Road. Temple Street is the third street to your right.

It has a nickname -- "Night Club for the Poor." A place for authentic Chinese food, fake watches, and palm reading. When you buy things at night markets such as Temple Street, remember to bargain with them. It's fun! (KC)

The night market on Temple Street is definitely a neat place to go. But go there at night. It is open during the late afternoon, but isn't as interesting then. I ate there, on the street a couple of times, with the taxis whizzing by about two feet away from my chair, and I never had any trouble with getting sick. But, of course, it is a risk :) (DM)


Tsim Sha Tsui
(MTR: Tsim Sha Tsui) From Central, take the Star Ferry to Tsim Sha Tsui

One of the major areas in Hong Kong where it's nothing but hotels, restaurants, shopping malls, and more shops. Tsim Sha Tsui East is another district but just about has the same stuff: shops, shops, hotels, and more shops. (JC)

On Granville Road, you'll find a lot of factory clothing outlets which sell clothes at bargain basement prices. When shopping, be very cautious about the quality of clothes. (CA)

See also: Hong Kong Cultural Centre, Hong Kong Museum of History, Hong Kong Space Museum, Kowloon Park, Ocean Terminal/Ocean Centre/Harbour City, Star Ferry, Victoria Harbour


University of Hong Kong
From MTR Central Station, take the light bus at the Bus Terminus below Exchange Square towards Aberdeen. Inform the driver ahead of time that you want to leave at the University of Hong Kong. CMB: 3 (from outside Jardine House. Get off at the terminus.)

Academia, Hong Kong style. Check out the Fung Ping Shan Museum. [Perhaps someone from HKU would like to fill in this section. E-mail me, please.] (JC)

Some places worth taking pictures at the University are the Main Building and the Stanley Ho Sports Centre. (MW)


Victoria Harbour
(See also: Star Ferry)

The cheapest and easiest way to get a view of both Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon peninsula is by taking the Star Ferry. (JC)

Definitely do a cruise on a Star Ferry. They are cheap and do nice tours of the harbor. Someone tries to sell you a 'your name in Chinese' painting on board, but that's easily side-stepped. They have morning, afternoon, sunset (great!) and night (also nice) cruises, and free drinks. (CK)

Another excellent place to view the harbour is at Tsim Sha Tsui East. From the Star Ferry on the Kowloon side, walk along Salisbury Road until you reach the Regent/New World Centre. The New World Centre is where the sidewalk along the coast begins. Walking along the coast takes you all the way to Tsim Sha Tsui East and Hung Hom where the KCR Kowloon Station is. One of the more popular downtown jogging areas. (JC)


Wanchai Park

(No information available at this time.)


RESTAURANTS/EATING IN HONG KONG

Restaurant locations are in brackets and provided by JC.

With about 20,000 restaurants in Hong Kong, all I can say is that you have plenty of choice. As with many cities, the most expensive are to be found in luxury hotels. Side-street eating places near the tourist areas are often the best value. For rock bottom prices go to residential areas such as Mong Kok and eat from street stalls. (A full meal for US$1).
Also if you want to see what over-population looks like, Mong Kok at evening meal time (around 6pm) is the place to go. Everyone eats in the street as many of the high rise apartments don't have cooking facilities. (JN)

In HK you'll probably find the best food you've eaten in your whole life. All the major hotels have excellent restaurants. You should also try the "Revolving 66" (on Hong Kong island), its on top of a round skyscraper (you can see the building from the mainland side very easily) and it revolves (as the name suggests), reserve a table on the window side, you'll get a breathtaking view of HK at night. A "should see" is also the "floating restaurant", not the best food (still better then most of the stuff here), but an experience. (VS)
[Revolving 66 is located at the top of Hopewell Centre, Queens Road East and Spring Garden Lane. MTR: Wan Chai]

In Tsim Sha Tsui: The "Italy, France, Japan" resturant two floors up in Chung King arcade (really good budget food, but stay away from their steaks).
[Chung King Mansion -- 40 Nathan Rd.]
Ned Kelly's for good food anytime and good music after 9PM. [Ned Kelly's Last Stand -- 11A Ashley Rd. 2366-0562]
Bottoms Up - have one drink there. Stay out of ALL other topless bars.
[Bottoms Up -- 14 Hankow Rd. 2721-4509] (BM)

As for food, you must definitely try the following:

  1. Stewed Pigeon. You can get this almost at any small eating place.
  2. Snake Paste. I did not try this. Regrets.
  3. Road Side Food. You'll see a lot of road-side food stalls selling everything from glutinous rice to "chee-cheong-fun". They're cheap and tasty. I have my reservations for hygiene, though.
  4. Egg Tarts. A must.
  5. Noodles. They come in a variety of style from beef stewed to prawn dumplings. All taste good (but unhealthy). (SWN)

No visit to that part of Lantau is complete without lunch at the monastery. The food is vegetarian and delicious. The mushrooms are gorgeous---they don't always appeal to westerners though. (MT)

Here are some of my suggestions:

  1. North Garden at Shatin Shopping Centre (KCR: Shatin Station)
  2. Ocean Tea House at Tsim Sha Tsui. It's a large restaurant and seats around 2000. Be sure to try their pastries (baked fresh), barbeque pork, roast duck, and their fruit selection is excellent. (KW)

Hong Kong has its share of fast food restaurants. McDonald's and Pizza Hut can be found all over Hong Kong. Burger King and KFC also exist in various spots. Of course, since Hong Kong is known for the best Chinese food in the world, there is no reason why you should go to a fast food joint.
With that in mind, here are my top spots for food. Most of these restaurants are in the pricey end, but you will not regret it.

  1. Zen. Basement of Pacific Place, steps from MTR Admiralty Station. In my opinion, it's by far the best dim sum restaurant in Hong Kong. However, it's served only on weekends! To get a seat, book a day in advance. More expensive than most dim sum restaurants, but the quality of the food and service more than make up for the price. Dress casually.
  2. Wu Kong Restaurant. Peking Road steps away from Nathan Road. You can't miss the large green neon sign. This is a Shanghai restaurant. You go downstairs to the basement where the restaurant is located. It's not a very new restaurant, but the food is excellent. Instead of ordering plain steamed rice, get steamed rice mixed with pok choy. It's my favourite.
  3. Peking Garden. Order the Peking Duck along with some other dishes. When you do, a chef will come to your table, let you inspect the roasted duck and then will cut it up in small portions. Wrap some slices of meat along with a cucumber with the thin slice of dough and enjoy. Don't get any steamed rice! The Peking Duck is a guaranteed stomach stuffer! At around 9-10 in the evening, one of the chefs will show you how to make noodles from dough by hand! Peking Garden is operated by the Maxim's Restaurant Chain. Various locations including Pacific Place and Alexandria House, Central. I prefer the one at Alexandria House. Casual dress, although jacket preferred. Make reservations beforehand.
  4. Dan Ryan's. Two locations: Pacific Place and Ocean Terminal. Yeah, so Dan Ryan's is an American restaurant. But the food will make you feel you're back home. Food is served is huge portions so be prepared to get stuffed. My mom highly recommends the spinach salad with an extra portion of their salad dressing. You can also go to the pub and have a beer.
  5. As others have recommended, go to a small noodles restaurant and try any of their noodles. Won ton noodles is a good first choice if you've never had Chinese noodles. Essentially won ton are prawn dumplings (shrimp wrapped in dough). The restaurants may not look like five star restaurants, but the food is generally quite hygienic. (JC)

Mad Dogs Pub: There are branches on HK Island (10 minutes from the Star Ferry Terminal) and in Tsim Sha Tsui. If you are escaping from China and weeks of challenging food then these are great places to get good Western food (Toasted avocado, Brie sandwiches etc.) and good English beer. However, it's pretty pricy. During happy hour (between 4pm-8pm) beer is half price (sold at half price for draft, or two cans for the price of one). (DB)

I remember these trendy hot spots:

     (Continental) Mandarin Grill -- Mandarin Hotel
     (Chinese)     Unicorn (at Causeway Bay) -- "nouvelle cantonese!"
The restaurants in the top tier hotels on the Kowloon side are all pretty top notch.
I used to like to go to the Excelsior Grill, in the Excelsior Hotel in Causeway Bay; Landaus; Jimmy's Kitchen, a French restaurant in Stanley; and Repulse Bay Hotel. (CN)

Here's a short list of hot spots for decent food in Hong Kong:

     (French)      La Brassiere -- Omni Marco Polo Hotel, Canton Rd, Kowloon
     (Western)     Art Deco Bar and Grill -- up at the top of Victoria Peak.
As for Chinese food, look anywhere in Hong Kong and Kowloon. Everybody has their favorites and it would be unfair to tell you all of mine without allowing you to benefit of forming your own opinions.
Planet Hollywood, on the Kowloon side at Canton Road near the Omni Hong Kong Hotel, is about par as the chain restaurants go. The Hard Rock Cafe Kowloon is also on Canton Road, while the Hard Rock Cafe Hong Kong is at Swire House, Hong Kong side.


Other general views about Hong Kong

And I hope you like noise! Hong Kong never stops. This is also fascinating - I watched (using binoculars!) a game of Mah Jong going on in a room opposite my hotel late in the afternoon. It was still going at 1am, and finished at about 7am next morning. They started again that night! I could see the hands the guy with his back to me was playing! (AR)

Three weeks is a loooonggggg time to spend in Hong Kong. I think you'll go stir crazy. I suggest you consider arranging an excursion into China. Hong Kong is a great jump-off point for arranging tours into China. A good 14 day tour would show you ALL of China's major attractions and still leave you a week for Hong Kong (plenty). Two weeks in China, all inclusive, won't cost you as much from Hong Kong as from America (or Canada). A travel agent in Hong Kong can get your Visa for China in 2-3 days. If you're interested, I suggest you invest in a book entitled, "China: A Survival Kit" published by The Lonely Planet (you're probably familiar with them...) They'll tell you how to make all the arrangements and give you an estimate on the cost depending on where you go, etc. (??)

As in any other city you visit, it would be wise to buy a recently updated map of Hong Kong before visiting there. Study it a little and make sure you have it with you at all times when you are in Hong Kong. Don't be afraid to ask locals for directions. (JC/KE)

Hong Kong is a bustling, active place. "Activity" is the word that to me characterizes the place. One can easily get sensory overload from walking around there. (KE)

On Saturday mornings you'll probably be asked on the street by students in their school uniforms to make a small donation to a certain charity. It has become a part of Hong Kong and usually everyone donates. As a tip, a $1 or $2 coin is usually sufficient. In return you'll get a sticker with the charity's name imprinted. More importantly, it's evidence that you've made a donation so you won't be asked to donate again. (JC)


Festivals and Holidays

(by Joel Chan)

Late January - Mid February: Chinese New Year.
Every year adults give children lai-see (red packets) containing money for the kids to spend. If you happen to be in town during Chinese New Year, be sure to visit the streets and watch the dragon dances around town. The fireworks display at Victoria Harbour is spectacular.


June 12: The Queen's Birthday. The following Monday is also declared a public holiday.


Late June: International Dragon Boat Races; Dragon Boat Festival
In Chinese it's called the Tuen Ng Festival. The International Dragon Boat Races are usually held near Tsim Sha Tsui East. Participants from various countries compete in this very popular event.


The Saturday before the last Monday in August:
The excuse for saying, "Gosh, there haven't been any holidays recently. Let's make up one." However...


August 30: Liberation Day.
Public holiday.


Late August/Early September: Mid-Autumn Festival.
The first weekday after the Mid-Autumn Festival is a public holiday.


Late October: Chung Yeung Festival.
Public holiday.


December 25: Christmas.
The first weekday after Christmas is also a public holiday.


Other Related Information on the Internet

soc.culture.hongkong FAQ Posted monthly in soc.culture.hongkong, news.answers and soc.answers.

Hong Kong Pictures Archive

Latest scenic pictures of Hong Kong. All files are encoded in gif format.


The List of Contributors who've made this Guide possible:
Carlo Ang          cang@acs.ryerson.ca                      CA
Tony Beaumont      beaumont@acrc.bristol.ac.uk              TB
Dave Britton       brit@hep.physics.mcgill.ca               DB
Nigel Burnett      nigel@kathunk.phaedrav.on.ca             NB
Chris Boyd         chrix%RAROTONGA.ISLAND.COM               CB
Anne-Gigi Chan     doggie@cats.ucsc.edu                     AGC
Joel Chan          joel@math.toronto.edu                    JC
Howard Chien       hwc@sei.cmu.edu                          HC
King Chu           CHUAKIN@ems.cdc.com                      KC
Michael Chiu       Michael.Chiu@f74.n700.z6.ftn.air.org     MC 
Frank Chui         fkc00@duts.ccc.amdahl.com                FC
Lauren Crawford    crawford@ben.dev.upenn.edu               LLC
Debora Doucette    Debbie@cup.portal.com                    DAD
Ken Ewing          kene@sequent.com                         KE
Russell Gilbert    gilbert@esd.dl.nec.com                   RG
Ken Heard          kheard@ccs.carleton.ca                   KH
Pamela Hinds       ph00+@andrew.cmu.edu                     PH
Nick Jacobs        njacobs@nyx.cs.du.edu                    NJ
Carla Kuiken       kuiken@amc.uva.nl                        CK
Mark Lafontaine    mark@nickel.laurentian.ca                ML
Danny Lau          laud@wu13.wl.aecl.ca                     DL
Wai-On Law         onlaw@taiping.sps.mot.com                WOL
Tinhang Ma         tinhang%whipple@cs.wisc.edu              THM
Jennifer Magarity  jlm@hk.super.net                         JM
Henry Mensch       henry@ADS.COM                            HM
Bill Mitchell      mitchell@mdd.comm.mot.com                BM
Don Murray                                                  DM
Bill Newlin        bnewlin@netcom.com                       BN
John Newman        john_newman@qmcc.curtin.edu.au           JN
Soon Wei Ng        ngsw@hpsgm2.sgp.hp.com                   SWN
Chris Northcutt    chrisn@crl.com                           CN
Eleanor Pope       epope@bnr.ca                             EP
Stephan Paulus     stefccfc@w250zrz                         SP
Alex Reid          alex@uniwa.uwa.oz.au                     AR
Volker Soffel      volker@nsc.nsc.com                       VS
Ken Staggers       staggers@cup.hp.com                      KS 
Brian Joseph Starr bstarr@liege.ics.uci.edu                 BJS
Mark Templeton                                              MT
Kenneth Thorpe     kathorpe@glink.net.hk                    KT
Don Topaz          mr_topaz@callme.enet.dec.com             DT
Frank Tsui         fkc00@duts.ccc.amdahl.com                FT
Barbara Vaughan    bvaughan@sheps.princeton.edu             BV
Mark Wan Hong-yin  mark@hongkong.ml.com                     MW
Tor-Ulf Weck       t.weck@hut.fi                            TUW
Ken Wong           kfwong@microweb.com                      KW
Linda Wu           lwoo@u.washington.edu                    LW
Anonymous or unknown contributors                           ??


Copyright and Disclaimer:

The rec.travel.asia Hong Kong Travel Guide is Copyright © 1992-1996 by Joel Chan. Permission to freely redistribute this guidebook via electronic means is expressly granted provided distribution is done without charges of any kind, that it is for non-commercial purposes, and that it is distributed in its' entirety including this banner and the attributions, and that no alterations of any kind are made. Nothing in this article represents the views of the University of Toronto nor the Department of Mathematics at the University of Toronto.